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  #1  
Old 12-12-2007, 04:56 AM
Sonicanvil Sonicanvil is offline
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Soldering

seeking suggestions for wattage of soldering irons and types of solder for working on audio cable, speaker cable and circuit boards.
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  #2  
Old 12-13-2007, 05:02 PM
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daveg daveg is offline
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Weller WTCP 51

This is the iron I would recomend to start with, google for sellers.

I do not wish to enter into a soldering arguement on wave.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2007, 09:19 PM
djchrishiggs djchrishiggs is offline
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Low wattage for circuit boards!
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2007, 09:23 PM
moonmoon moonmoon is offline
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i'm partial to this for field work.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2007, 09:49 PM
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I use exactly the same Butan gas iron, its what i recomend,
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2007, 01:22 AM
Mr ZDUR Mr ZDUR is offline
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This is the one I have: WELLER WES51 I soldered on a crappy iron for over a decade before I got this one. It really makes a BIG difference when you are able to control the amount of heat needed. I also have an 80 watt iron for heavy duty work like grounding chassis.
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  #7  
Old 12-14-2007, 06:53 AM
thermionic thermionic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djchrishiggs
Low wattage for circuit boards!

The wattage is totally and utterly irrelevant in terms of potentially damaging fragile items - the temperature and type of tip fitted governs the iron's suitability for delicate jobs.

You can do tiny, SMD soldering with an 80-watt iron - no problem - it's all down to the temp setting and the tip used.

In Europe, Weller is near industry-standard, but it's very expensive compared to other brands.

In the US, Pace and Metcal get good reviews, as does Hakko.

Make sure to get a selection of tips.

With regards to power, a larger iron will enable you to solder heavy-duty items such as speaker binding posts etc. If you don't intend to work on such items, a 25-watt iron will be perfect for cabling and PCB-related soldering. You can get away with using a 25-watt iron for binding posts etc, but you'll need to leave the tip in-place for longer, which subjects the item being soldered to heat for a longer time.

You'll also want to some 'helping hands' (those adjustable stands with crocodile clips - essential for cable making)

A soldering-grade sponge.

Some solder - 63/37 or 60/40 is industry-standard - DON'T go for lead-free solder unless you REALLY have to (in Chicago, you don't). Pb-free solder is much more tool-intensive - don't do it unnecessarily.

Desoldering wick. Avoid desoldering plunger-type pumps for anything other than thick binding posts etc - they can do a lot of damage. Wick is best for delicate stuff, and more thorough.


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  #8  
Old 12-15-2007, 03:01 AM
Sonicanvil Sonicanvil is offline
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Thanks for the information.
i was debating between fixed temp and adjustable.
didn't think about tips so thanks for pointing that out.
don't think i will be going butane but its something to consider.
gotta love this forum!
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2007, 02:28 AM
George Stavropo George Stavropo is offline
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Soldering irons

Gents

I depends on the type of solder you are using as well.

That lead free solder need a ton of heat.

I can barely get my 65W Weller to work with that shit and I'm going back to lead solder.
I thought i would save the few brain cells I have left and start using the lead free stuff but it's not worth the trouble for me.

I have a 220 volt iron i use in Europe and Asia made by Hakko. It's called Hakko Presto and it has a push button that makes the iron go from 60 W to 80 W.
I also have these great Japanese soldering iron made by a company called Goot.
Check their iron. I'm not sure if they are available here but they are great.

George
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2007, 09:56 AM
djchrishiggs djchrishiggs is offline
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I stand corrected!
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